Sunday, December 30, 2018

Fancy charoses


Personally, I like my mom’s basic, tried and true charoses – apples, walnuts, sugar, cinnamon and sweet red kosher for Passover wine, mixed to taste.  But if you’re feeling you need a little more zip to your seder table, Joan Nathan is always a good bet! Thanks to the New York Times for publishing this!

Provençal Haroseth for Passover

  • YIELDAbout 5 cups
  • TIME15 minutes
Provençal Haroseth for Passover
Melina Hammer for The New York Times

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 cup blanched or roasted unsalted almonds
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 1 cup dried apricots
  • 1 cup dried figs
  • ½ cup walnut halves
  • 1 tart apple, peeled, cored and chopped into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 cup peeled roasted chestnuts(available vacuum-packed or canned)
  • ½ cup pine nuts, toasted if desired
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 4 to 6 tablespoons sweet wine, kosher for Passover

PREPARATION

  1. Place the almonds, raisins, apricots, figs, walnuts, apple, and chestnuts in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until you reach the consistency of your choice.
  2. Add the pine nuts and stir in the cinnamon, ginger and wine vinegar. Pulse once more, adding enough sweet wine to bind the ingredients.
  3. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Creme Brulee


My good friends Chris Lent and Amanda Birk joined me in making this treat, from The Food Network, for our Night of Fire, when every dish we make is flambéed or otherwise involves an open flame. (Except that time we included gefilte fish. But that’s another story.)
This was easier to make than I feared, though I did have to prepare by making my own vanilla sugar, which isn’t sold around here.
Here’s how you do that:
1.      Remove the seeds from a vanilla bean with a sharp knife.
2.      Place them in a food processor, along with a few cups of granulated sugar
3.      Turn on the food processor.
4.      Put it into jars.



Creme Brulee

  • Level: Intermediate
  • Total: 3 hr 30 min
  • Prep: 15 min
  • Inactive: 2 hr 15 min
  • Cook: 1 hr
  • Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients

1 quart heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 cup vanilla sugar, divided
6 large egg yolks
2 quarts hot water


Directions



  1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. 
  2. Place the cream, vanilla bean and its pulp into a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and allow to sit for 15 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and reserve for another use. 
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup sugar and the egg yolks until well blended and it just starts to lighten in color. Add the cream a little at a time, stirring continually. Pour the liquid into 6 (7 to 8-ounce) ramekins. Place the ramekins into a large cake pan or roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake just until the creme brulee is set, but still trembling in the center, approximately 40 to 45 minutes. 
  4. Remove the ramekins from the roasting pan and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 3 days. Remove the creme brulee from the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes prior to browning the sugar on top. Divide the remaining 1/2 cup vanilla sugar equally among the 6 dishes and spread evenly on top. Using a torch, melt the sugar and form a crispy top. Allow the creme brulee to sit for at least 5 minutes before serving.

Friday, September 7, 2018

Dad's Brisket

While Norman is a professional chef, my dad is a talented amateur.  His recipes tend to involve a lot of garlic and a lot of wine - so much so that, as a 19-year-old living on my own and having to cook for myself for the first time, I had a real problem - all of my recipes required alcohol, which I was too young to buy.  I was probably the only undergrad begging her friends to buy red wine so she could make chicken cacciatore!

None of his recipes are simple. But they all come out wonderfully, and his brisket is no exception.

Ingredients:

1 brisket
Red wine
garlic, cut
coffee (instant. Or already made.)
small can of crushed tomato
pepper
cut onions
cut carrots
Browned flour (put the flour in a pan and cook gently as you stir it until it turns brown.)

1.Cut off what fat you can. Pepper the brisket.  Brown it in the aluminum plan you plan to cook it in - maybe put a little salt on the bottom of the pan first.

2. Pour the ingredients - except the flour - over it, mixed to taste.  I used half a bulb of garlic, half a large onion and half a bottle of wine for a 5 pound brisket.  I skipped the coffee because I forgot it.

3. Cook at 250 degrees until tender when you poke a fork in it - about 5 to 6 hours (I cooked it with Norman's at 325 for 4.5 hours.)

4. Remove meat from sauce, cool, and slice against the grain.

5. Strain out the veggies, then use a fat separator to pour the good sauce out from under the fat.

6. Store the meat in the sauce, and reheat in the sauce.

7. When you're ready to make the gravy, blend the veggies and sauce in a blender.  Mix the browned flour in a bit of cold water and pour it in as a thickener.

Norman Mael's Brisket

Last year, Norman Mael, long a stalwart and the chief cook of our synagogue, moved. Every year, he would make us a delicious brisket, the highlight of the Rosh Hashanah - Jewish New Year - feast he and his wife Lisa hosted at their house.

I tried holding a potluck without him, but it was sparsely attended.  So this year, I decided to bring back the brisket.

It was more of a challenge than you'd think. 

1. I've never made brisket, though I love my dad's.
2. It would have to be kosher. But I've never cooked kosher meat.  I usually bail out by making something vegetarian. And my kitchen is definitely not kosher - I've made crab.
3. There are no kosher briskets to be found in Bloomsburg. Or in the grocery stores in Williamsport. Or Wilkes-Barre.  No, you can't special order them, not from Weis, not from Giant, not from Wegmans.  I checked.

But Norman came to my rescue.  He found me three kosher briskets in Boston, and sent them home with his daughter Mary.

Plus he gave me his recipe.  He even sent along the onion soup he uses!

Next, I looked into koshering my kitchen.  That was a no go.  I have only one sink - you need two.  You need separate dishes, silverware, cutting boards and blender blades for meat and dairy - I suspect this rule was a plot thought up by potters and blacksmiths.  To makes something kosher that was once non-kosher - like all of my silverware except one small knife I use to cook vegetarian food for the synagogue - you have to let it rest for 24 hours, then boil it, without touching anything, including other pieces of sanctifying silverware.

Unless it's a knife.  You can kosher a knife by stabbing it into the earth in 10 different places. Or a flowerpot of dirt - really!  Unless it's serrated.  Then it's back to boiling.

Too much for me!

So I moved the project to the synagogue kitchen, where we had everything needed - separate plates, silverware, etc., except for a good kosher meat knife.

Until Friday.

I was still debating whether I wanted to risk dulling my one non-serrated good knife by stabbing it into my lawn, or whether I'd settle for sawing away at the brisket with the synagogues meat-side table knives when I arrived at the synagogue to start the cooking.

There, on the counter, was a beautiful, sharp chef's knife!  I don't know where it came from.  But I took it as a gift from G-d and got started!

Four and a half hours later, I had three extremely tender and tasty briskets.  I couldn't decide if I wanted to use my dad's recipe or Norman's, so I made two of dad's and one of Norman's. (I thought I would make one of each, but had to buy more than I needed of the ingredients for one of Dad's. I had planned to use just two pans, but the meat didn't fit and I needed a third.)

Both came out delectable and tender.  I'm still not sure which is my favorite.  So I'll post both.

The trick is low and slow - as John Hopkins of Forks Farm advised me.  I cooked these at 325 for 4.5 hours.

Here's Norman's. I'll post Dad's separately.

Ingedients:

1 large brisket, about 7 pounds
1 box of onion soup.  Not a packet - a box. Norman uses a kind that comes two packets to the box
1 bottle of ketchup, 14-ounces
1 liter of ginger ale
Pepper to taste.

1. Pepper the brisket. Brown if you like (I did), but that's optional.

2. Put the brisket in one of those disposable aluminum pans(assuming you didn't brown them in the pan.)

3. Add all the other ingredients.

4. Seal the pan tightly with aluminum foil, then drop it in another aluminum pan.

5. Pop it in the oven and leave it alone for 4-5 hours.

6. Let the meat cool before you remove it from the sauce and slice it. Slice it across the grain. Take any fat off the sauce after it has cooled. Return the meat to the sauce and stick it in the fridge until the day you use it.

7. Reheat gently in the sauce.